Here are some additional possible embodiments of the idea submitted, further clarifying the prior art in the preferred embodiment published in this post.

1) The OD bearing may be replaced with any bearing means allowing rotation of the inner components withing the static outer ones.

2) The auger means of fluid movement could be any type of means for conveying the fluid.

3) The drive motor may be replaced with any means of rotating the shaft and use any appropriate means of attachment between them.

4) The hose adapter at the exit may be replaced with any means of connection to the means of confining the fluid during conveyance to its destination.

5) Rain water input may be replaces with any water adequate for mixing with cement.

I have many patents and understand them quite well, while hating them all the same. Nobody can own an idea. The patent system has done more to retard the advancement of human technology than anything else. If not for its tyrannical limitations imposed upon individual human action, we would all already have flying cars. This project is as most should be, open source sharing of everything, the only other just option being secrecy.

Spring is here and we're back to work. We've been waiting for 5-days ahead with temperatures comfortably above freezing, for minimal risk of the blocks freezing before cutting and storage. Freezing uncured aircrete can result in low strength. We won't start stacking until we have at least two such weeks ahead, because the mortar and outer coating can't be protected from freezing. Building will probably resume in about 3 weeks.

This video presents a saw maintenance update. We cut off part of a saw's handle to get a couple of inches more saw stroke.

Two things weren't mentioned. First, the wider blade of the wooden handled saw makes it easier to saw straighter and with less bow. Also, a harder blade is better to resist wear which is going to require another new saw soon.

The earlier saw kerf setting video with more detail is at
https://news.1rj.ru/str/AircreteDomestead/527

Foam Making Wand Maintenance
Changing out the steel wool

When calibrating the foam for the second aircrete pour of the season, the foam solution pump began to struggle and stop. The problem stopped when the wand was removed from the end of the tubing. So, it appeared it had become plugged.

The appearance of the removed fine stainless steel wool is shared and discussed in the video. It was indeed plugged. Glad the wand was designed to allow replacement of the wool.

Afterward, the required air pressure for the correct density of foam dropped from 58 to 48 psi. The blocks turned out very nice like the ones poured a week ago. The foam solution usage was normal.

The original foam wand assembly is presented at
https://bastyon.com/aircretedomestead?s=45f2d71ba1f98535e42b2db151c1d7525377da02ccdb2befafdb03146afc0bb9

Foam Making Wand Maintenance

Aircrete Block Pouring Preparation
This is done the day before or very early the day of pouring.

Aircrete Block Cutting - New Saw Version

This is the block cutting process using a much better saw made for cutting soft stone. Also, the use of better shims and debris collection is included.

The saw is by Stanley Tools, model 1-15-441. I didn't find this in the USA and bought one from France.

Construction Update 11 May 2023

The small (20 ft inside diameter) dome has grown a lot taller since the last update.

The current upper course has reached the top of the door/window arches. This requires a different cutting method for the blocks against the arches. Note the shape of these blocks needed. Cutting of these complex blocks will be described in a pictorial format for the next post.

Project Update – 6 June 23

It’s getting taller. The 20 ft dome feels like we’re laying ceiling blocks.

We applied another level of basalt mesh and seal coat on the 20 ft dome. FYI, this is the first of three seal coats. The second is a layer of MasterSeal 581. Finally, a waterproof 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick layer of stucco will be applied on the outside.

The first block in a high course is also the keystone wedge. We set these the day before for better stability of the adjacent block. See it in the video, along with a teaser about some new improvements in the process.

Pre-cutting of blocks to save overall labor is discussed, along with what’s necessary to do so. An investment of a half day cutting blocks allows a crew of three to to lay a high course in one day, instead of two. The resulting smaller mortar lines reduce thermal bridging (like studs in a conventional wall) to raise overall insulation. Also, considerable cement is saved, along with mortar making labor.

Scaffolding constraints are discussed.

First Full Circumference Course Above The Arches
23 May 23

A wee bit about prep at the top of the arches to have a good surface for laying blocks on.

The top of the arch at the start of the video is a little more outward than originally planned. There’s a resulting cavity which will be filled with mortar when the inside is finished.

After rasping the top course shown, some mortar was added to fill in the low spot above the first arch shown.

Rasping First Full Circumference Course Above The Arches
24 May 23

We have a further improvement to be introduced soon. A laser level used to keep the rasping true. This helps facilitate the pre-cut blocks. So, this video will soon be obsolete and isn’t being posted on Bastyon where it’s only the final versions.

Inserting Final Block, aka Keystone, In High Course
23 May 23

Also, some discussion of the block slippage challenge developing at this steep angle off horizontal. The blocks started slipping on the mortar below like a bearing.

This will soon be obsolete. So, it’s not going on Bastyon.

New Wire Keeper For Laying Upper Blocks
6 June 23

This solved the block slippage challenge developing at this steep angle off horizontal. The blocks started slipping on the mortar below like a bearing. The wire provides positive support, without relying on friction with brick ties.

We’re using 0.100 thick hanger wire, used to hang suspended ceilings. It has the stiffness we need, but still able to be bent with hand tools. It’s about 2 inches on each end with the bends about 4 inches apart. They’re stuck in a piece of foam insulation board for storage.

The wires will not be removed. We will snip off any encountered when finishing the inside wall.

View out the roof of the 20 ft dome.

https://bastyon.com/index?v=f5ca02c2802c9653e0a788f489c8b1f3714d1c010ef2d058b1fc7e3c6f5c077d&video=1

ANNOUNCEMENT: This content is now being posted EXCLUSIVELY ON BASTYON and no longer added to on Telegram. I don't have time to waste publishing stuff where it can be completely blocked any day.

I can't possibly over-encourage you to download the app from https://bastyon.com/applications and use that instead, so your access to Bastyon content can't be blocked.

https://bastyon.com/AircreteDomestead

Several posts at the link have brought the documentation up to date.


I can't possibly over-encourage you to download the app from https://bastyon.com/applications and use that instead, so your access to Bastyon content can't be blocked.

Here's the latest

https://bastyon.com/index?v=e40513b8243ae8c44b81a3e3c98503543e706f790f75851400a447d0b6ddb0b8&video=1

Looking for suggestions from people with real experience with saw mill saws.

After deciding on the best way to saw blocks efficiently, the entire state of the art building process may be ready to go commercial. For short blocks in the bottom portion of the dome, three sides are cut, plus maybe a 4th when the pour top isn't parallel enough with the bottom. After about 45 degrees up the dome, above the equator, four cuts are required to keep the block laying efficient with minimal mortar which is much less insulating. 39" long arch blocks only need the top and bottom cut, with one needing to be cur at an angle to the other in the top portion of the arch. A friend very familiar with saw milling has seen what cuts are needed and will be making some suggestions. Other opinions from saw mill experts would be nice.

The bottom, as poured, of each block (11" tall, 8" thick, 39" long, 40 lbs) has a powdery surface, sometime with recesses where excess liquid pooled on the form. So, the bottom of the block needs to have 1/2 to 1" sliced off.

For arches, the top of each 39 inch long block will be skimmed mostly parallel to the bottom, if more than 1/2" out to start. Blocks in the top portion of an arch need this second cut to be at an angle so that the outside is wider than the inside for narrow mortar joints.

As needed (over 1/2" out of parallel to bottom), the 39" long blocks to be cut to 13" for the lower portion of the dome, would need to have the top skimmed off mostly parallel to the bottom, like the bottom blocks in the arches.

For blocks in the cylindrical section, 3 courses below the dome equator, after cutting the bottom and top, each block will be tipped over on a side and cut square to 13 inch lengths.

For the dome above the equator, the length cuts alternate +/- 3 degrees for a 20 ft dome (2 degrees for 30 ft) downward thru the 8" thickness. The long side is 13 inches to get 3 blocks out of each large block. This angle cut laid on the block below causes the dome blocks to naturally tip inward and have a minimal mortal line all the way through. Note, maybe two saws arranged to cut both ends of a block in the same setup may be best, to avoid rolling the block over or changing the saw angle before every cut.

The dome blocks are tipped and laid so the as-poured top is on the side against the as-poured bottom of the next block in the course. As the courses get higher and tip inward more, this fit between the blocks, cut parallel top to bottom (side to side as laid), causes a triangle shaped gap to open up. The lower side of this gap gets wider with height. Eventually, the as-poured top of the 13" blocks with the +/- degree cut ends need to have a compound angle cut to minimize the triangle gap for minimal mortar. The cut changes with every higher course and is done based on actual measurements. It's likely that the 39" long blocks used to make these short blocks may not have the top skimmed, to avoid an unnecessary top cut. This last cut may remain hand sawn at the construction site, if the ROI of this least used and most complicated band saw isn't justified.

BTW aircrete is brittle. So a band saw should damage them less than a fast reciprocating saw.

Of course, there's the bottom line. The band saws with large tooth blades need to be a reasonable cost. If you have any suggestions for saw types to use, it would be much appreciated.

FYI current mixing/molding method for blocks ready to cut requires 11 manhours to produce either 22 long blocks (one complete arch) or 66 short blocks (66 linear feet of dome block courses).

Today we blew away the old record of about 50 for the number of blocks laid in a day. 82 blocks in a single day. Yay!!!

Discussed the @AircreteDomestead project. That's taking a large majority of my time, until we have to stop for winter.

Also, visited about other stuff around our homestead, natural health, Qortal, Bastyon, Midfest, etc. Hope y'all enjoy the interview which is audio only.

https://www.freedomsphoenix.com/Media/350221-2023-09-11-2023-09-11-ernest-hancock-interviews-mike-swatek.htm