If you have a leaning tree or a 'leaner' for short, you will need to use rope and wedges to gain a mechanical advantage to push/pull the tree where you want and away from structures. This makes the project several degrees more dangerous so watch this video to understand the physics involved. It's not the most exciting video but this is one area where safety and understanding precedes entertainment.
https://youtu.be/Y4Vke_-cWYg
https://youtu.be/Y4Vke_-cWYg
YouTube
Pulling Trees Down With Rope
Describes basic techniques for pulling trees down. Provides insights on rope selection and addresses some of the highly variable cost factors.
On Masonite siding:
Masonite is a material which is basically constructed of heat pressed glued cardboard. It was conceived around the 1930s as a construction material, but was dismissed during that era for anything but cabinet backing as it is woefully inadequate for anything exposed to the elements.
However, beginning in the late 1970s and ending in the early 90s (widespread at usage at least, some literal retards still continue the practice), homebuilders began using this material in place of traditional lap siding as it is lightweight, easy to cut, and inexpensive. The decision was made based on their desire to build homes cheaply and quickly using illegal immigrant labor.
To nobody's surprise, this material quickly began having issues in high exposure environments. It turns out literal cardboard is a horrible material choice, and many homebuilders as well as the masonite company itself was sued over it.
Like any jew corporate business, they simply renamed the company and continued on.
Masonite is a material which is basically constructed of heat pressed glued cardboard. It was conceived around the 1930s as a construction material, but was dismissed during that era for anything but cabinet backing as it is woefully inadequate for anything exposed to the elements.
However, beginning in the late 1970s and ending in the early 90s (widespread at usage at least, some literal retards still continue the practice), homebuilders began using this material in place of traditional lap siding as it is lightweight, easy to cut, and inexpensive. The decision was made based on their desire to build homes cheaply and quickly using illegal immigrant labor.
To nobody's surprise, this material quickly began having issues in high exposure environments. It turns out literal cardboard is a horrible material choice, and many homebuilders as well as the masonite company itself was sued over it.
Like any jew corporate business, they simply renamed the company and continued on.
So, if you have existing lap siding on your home, inspect it and ensure it is not Masonite. If it is, you'll need to replace at least the bottom half with a more suitable material (in addition to any vapor barrier or sheathing/framing that has been damaged).
It is of the utmost importance that you do not ignore this because damaged masonite will cause water damage and attract termites.
It is of the utmost importance that you do not ignore this because damaged masonite will cause water damage and attract termites.
As a side thought, if we keep posting how-to guides based on our personal experiences and training, maybe ANTIFA will realize just how shit their NEET lives are and be driven to absolute suicidal depression?
Either that or maybe they'll have a come to Jesus moment and realize that maybe they should make something of their lives and go do some hard work to better their situation like the chads of this channel instead of reading every word we say and constantly raging at white men trying to help others.
Probably not, but it's a good thought at least. They'll keep constantly hitting refresh and poring over every word while having massive mood swings induced by their faggot tranny hormone treatments and social media addiction.
Either that or maybe they'll have a come to Jesus moment and realize that maybe they should make something of their lives and go do some hard work to better their situation like the chads of this channel instead of reading every word we say and constantly raging at white men trying to help others.
Probably not, but it's a good thought at least. They'll keep constantly hitting refresh and poring over every word while having massive mood swings induced by their faggot tranny hormone treatments and social media addiction.
Your best bet is to aquire land somewhere, anywhere you can afford (away from dense urban centers). When looking for land you need to keep budget in mind, you need to plan. DO NOT go in to debt. Find somewhere affordable and start saving up.
Start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the land. Are you going to primarily farm, hunt, fish? Are you going to build a cabin? How large? You will want to have hard blueprints for any structures you plan to build, beforehand.
Once you have your general location selected and you have some money saved up, start trying to find the physical plot of land you want to buy. Do not just buy online and hope for the best. There will be a lot of paperwork to fill out and depending on the zoning and access, there may be a lot of hidden costs. Watch out for deed issues and conservation lands, primarily.
Get a property map - go to the site to examine the physical land. You need to be looking for things like:
-Water access?
-Soil quality? You can't build on flooded land, think about the crops you want to grow
-Ledge? Are there huge boulders sticking out all over the place? This may be ledge and is a disaster when digging foundation, let alone farming.
-Plants? What kinds of plants are already growing there naturally? This will tell you a lot about your soil.
-Trees? Has the land been cleared already? What species of tree grow there? Think about your firewood and log cabin construction. Already cleared land is a waste of your money.
-Terrain? Is it mountainous/hilly? Flat? Flat is easier for building and farming, mountains are better for the Eagles Nest type of homestead
If looking to fish, buy land with a river. If looking to farm (to feed a family) buy a minimum of 4 acres. If looking to sustain a population of game on your own land (to hunt every year) look for around 50 acres. You can hunt successfully with >10 acres too, but your wild game is more susceptible to population fluctuation. The land you buy now will sustain your family for generations
Start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the land. Are you going to primarily farm, hunt, fish? Are you going to build a cabin? How large? You will want to have hard blueprints for any structures you plan to build, beforehand.
Once you have your general location selected and you have some money saved up, start trying to find the physical plot of land you want to buy. Do not just buy online and hope for the best. There will be a lot of paperwork to fill out and depending on the zoning and access, there may be a lot of hidden costs. Watch out for deed issues and conservation lands, primarily.
Get a property map - go to the site to examine the physical land. You need to be looking for things like:
-Water access?
-Soil quality? You can't build on flooded land, think about the crops you want to grow
-Ledge? Are there huge boulders sticking out all over the place? This may be ledge and is a disaster when digging foundation, let alone farming.
-Plants? What kinds of plants are already growing there naturally? This will tell you a lot about your soil.
-Trees? Has the land been cleared already? What species of tree grow there? Think about your firewood and log cabin construction. Already cleared land is a waste of your money.
-Terrain? Is it mountainous/hilly? Flat? Flat is easier for building and farming, mountains are better for the Eagles Nest type of homestead
If looking to fish, buy land with a river. If looking to farm (to feed a family) buy a minimum of 4 acres. If looking to sustain a population of game on your own land (to hunt every year) look for around 50 acres. You can hunt successfully with >10 acres too, but your wild game is more susceptible to population fluctuation. The land you buy now will sustain your family for generations
Some of the most valuable resources are water and electricity when living off grid. Learning how to make a Water Ram pump can provide you with fresh spring water, indefinitely.
https://youtu.be/bzaInlFVq0s
https://youtu.be/bzaInlFVq0s
YouTube
How to Make a "Water Ram" off-grid Water Pump, requires no electricity
This is how to build a Water Ram water pump from easy to find parts at any local hardware store. The Water Ram can pump water uphill hundreds of feet higher then the source delivering the water to the pump.
Want to build your own TROMPE at home, here is the…
Want to build your own TROMPE at home, here is the…
Abigail_R_Gehring_Back_to_Basics_.pdf
60.6 MB
A complete guide to traditional skills and homesteading. Great read
Suggestion:
Start testing your equipment.
Hang your hammock from a tree, make sure you familiarize yourself with what types of trees can support it, how much weight it can hold, and practice taking it down in a rush.
Go for a few rucks in full kit, including body armor etc. You may rethink some decisions you've made deciding weight etc.
Break in your boots, make sure you're comfortable in them and they're the right type for your foot.
Practice cooking on your camp stove with your mess kit, to ensure it is usable for the purposes you desire.
Sample your prep foods, buy accessory items such as canned meats, dried fruits, and bullion/seasoning flavors to make it more palatable for morale.
Learn basic takedown procedures, maintenance, and common failure points in your chosen firearms, try to have a few extra parts such as bolts and springs in your stockpile.
Whatever advice anyone gives you, the best situation/ gear is what you are familiar with and know how to use.
Personally, I'd go to war with a seasoned marksman who has experienced combat armed with a .22lr than a moron armed with the latest H&K black-scary-rifle
Start testing your equipment.
Hang your hammock from a tree, make sure you familiarize yourself with what types of trees can support it, how much weight it can hold, and practice taking it down in a rush.
Go for a few rucks in full kit, including body armor etc. You may rethink some decisions you've made deciding weight etc.
Break in your boots, make sure you're comfortable in them and they're the right type for your foot.
Practice cooking on your camp stove with your mess kit, to ensure it is usable for the purposes you desire.
Sample your prep foods, buy accessory items such as canned meats, dried fruits, and bullion/seasoning flavors to make it more palatable for morale.
Learn basic takedown procedures, maintenance, and common failure points in your chosen firearms, try to have a few extra parts such as bolts and springs in your stockpile.
Whatever advice anyone gives you, the best situation/ gear is what you are familiar with and know how to use.
Personally, I'd go to war with a seasoned marksman who has experienced combat armed with a .22lr than a moron armed with the latest H&K black-scary-rifle
Hygiene is crucial. As most of us civilized men already know, the ability to wash yourself and your clothes can prevent nasty infections and illnesses.
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Bought this vintage sewing machine and refurbished it for 60$. I have already made a woobie blanket and stuff sack. Sleeping bag and organizational bags are coming up next. Learning to make your own gear/clothing and having the ability to mend your clothing and gear is truly an essential life-long skill for any prepper/ woodsman.
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While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.