Suggestion:
Start testing your equipment.
Hang your hammock from a tree, make sure you familiarize yourself with what types of trees can support it, how much weight it can hold, and practice taking it down in a rush.
Go for a few rucks in full kit, including body armor etc. You may rethink some decisions you've made deciding weight etc.
Break in your boots, make sure you're comfortable in them and they're the right type for your foot.
Practice cooking on your camp stove with your mess kit, to ensure it is usable for the purposes you desire.
Sample your prep foods, buy accessory items such as canned meats, dried fruits, and bullion/seasoning flavors to make it more palatable for morale.
Learn basic takedown procedures, maintenance, and common failure points in your chosen firearms, try to have a few extra parts such as bolts and springs in your stockpile.
Whatever advice anyone gives you, the best situation/ gear is what you are familiar with and know how to use.
Personally, I'd go to war with a seasoned marksman who has experienced combat armed with a .22lr than a moron armed with the latest H&K black-scary-rifle
Start testing your equipment.
Hang your hammock from a tree, make sure you familiarize yourself with what types of trees can support it, how much weight it can hold, and practice taking it down in a rush.
Go for a few rucks in full kit, including body armor etc. You may rethink some decisions you've made deciding weight etc.
Break in your boots, make sure you're comfortable in them and they're the right type for your foot.
Practice cooking on your camp stove with your mess kit, to ensure it is usable for the purposes you desire.
Sample your prep foods, buy accessory items such as canned meats, dried fruits, and bullion/seasoning flavors to make it more palatable for morale.
Learn basic takedown procedures, maintenance, and common failure points in your chosen firearms, try to have a few extra parts such as bolts and springs in your stockpile.
Whatever advice anyone gives you, the best situation/ gear is what you are familiar with and know how to use.
Personally, I'd go to war with a seasoned marksman who has experienced combat armed with a .22lr than a moron armed with the latest H&K black-scary-rifle
Hygiene is crucial. As most of us civilized men already know, the ability to wash yourself and your clothes can prevent nasty infections and illnesses.
Allow yourself 90 minutes to do this the first time. It's easier every time. I make six batches in four hours now.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Homemade Soap Equipment: Stainless steel stock pot, half gallon glass jar, rubber spatula, or long handled wooden spoon. Scale that will weigh up to 38 ounces, thermometer, meat or candy is fine, mold with cover (I recommend a heavy plastic mold the size of a large shoe box if you intend to make soap only occasionally). I use an industrial plastic sheet of freezer paper, two large towels, or a blanket. *SAFETY GLASSES*, RUBBER GLOVES.
Ingredients: 12 oz lye (Red Devil, found beside Draino, do not use Draino), 32 oz water (My well water is hard so I buy it), 24 oz coconut oil (health food store), 24 oz olive oil (do not use virgin, the less pure the better), 38 oz vegetable oil (Crisco solid, not liquid oil), 4 oz fragrance/essential oil if desired botanicals if desired (8 oz pulverized oatmeal or 4 oz cornmeal or 2 oz dried herbs/flowers Dissolve lye in water).
This is best done under an exhaust fan or outdoor. Stand back and avoid fumes. Set aside to cool. In the stainless steel stock pot melt the Crisco and coconut oil. Add the olive oil and allow to cool. Grease your soap mold now. Some soap makers prefer silicone spray but my purpose in making my own soap is to avoid using things like that. I use Crisco. Fit the freezer paper into the bottom and two sides of the mold to make removing the soap easier. Grease the paper. When both the oils and lye mixtures have cooled to 90* you are ready to blend. You can speed cooling by using a sink of cool water and setting the mixtures in to cool. If one cools too much you can warm it in a sink of warm water. You need to have 10-40 minutes of uninterrupted time now. Slowly pour the water/lye mixture into the oils. You'll quickly see a reaction. Stir in a consistent manner. Don't beat as you would eggs but stir quickly enough to keep the mixture in constant motion. If you're creating bubbles in the mixture you are going too fast. Continue to stir until the soap "traces." You'll feel a slight difference in consistency as the soap begins to saponify. When tracing has occurred you'll be able to drizzle a small amount of soap back onto the top of the soap in the pan and it will leave a trace before sinking back into the rest of the mixture. After a batch or two you'll recognize when tracing has occurred by the feel of the soap while stirring. If you want to add botanicals/grains to your soap now is the time to do it. Remove one cup of soap (doesn't need to be exactly a cup, whatever it takes to mix with the botanical/grains) and stir in with whatever you're adding in a separate bowl. Oatmeal makes a nice complexion soap, corn meal adds texture to scrub dirty hands. As soon as it's mixed pour it back into the pan and stir. If you're going to add essential or fragrance oil pour it in slowly now. Continue to stir until well mixed then pour into prepared mold. Cover mold, wrap it in towels or blanket to keep warm and leave it undisturbed for 18 hours. No peaking! The soap will rise to approximately 160* and then cool down. Don't uncover until it's cooled. Allow soap to sit in the uncovered mold for 12 hours. Loosen sides and turn over onto a clean sideboard. You should cut your bars from the large mold within three days. You can cut it at any time but three days seems to be a good window. The soap doesn't become difficult to cut and smaller bars cure faster. Allow to cure 3-6 weeks before using.
Bought this vintage sewing machine and refurbished it for 60$. I have already made a woobie blanket and stuff sack. Sleeping bag and organizational bags are coming up next. Learning to make your own gear/clothing and having the ability to mend your clothing and gear is truly an essential life-long skill for any prepper/ woodsman.
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While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
There are key pieces of gear I think every winter mountain climber and camper needs. I am going to write up some recommendations on winter gear in the next few posts. I will go over boots/crampons, cold weather clothing, sleep systems and some other various gear to get your kit ready for the winter
Boots
Requirements:
-Goretex
-Insulated with 400g thinsulate
-10" high
-'Waterproof'
Pictured are Rocky S2V insulated boots I own (they make my size) I would recommend them.
Crampons/Microspikes
- Crampons have larger spikes, better for steep icy situations
-Microspikes are literally just that and are better for flat situations
- Flexible or semi rigid frame? Semi rigid is better for steeper situations, flexible for flatter
-Steel frame or aluminum? Steel will hold it's point when on rock, but aluminum is lighter (you will trash aluminum tips on rock)
- MAKE SURE you get a pair with an anti balling feature, look it up
I use Kahtoola KTS steel
P.S. make sure your multitool has a file on it, you don't want to have to hike down a mountain on dull spikes
Requirements:
-Goretex
-Insulated with 400g thinsulate
-10" high
-'Waterproof'
Pictured are Rocky S2V insulated boots I own (they make my size) I would recommend them.
Crampons/Microspikes
- Crampons have larger spikes, better for steep icy situations
-Microspikes are literally just that and are better for flat situations
- Flexible or semi rigid frame? Semi rigid is better for steeper situations, flexible for flatter
-Steel frame or aluminum? Steel will hold it's point when on rock, but aluminum is lighter (you will trash aluminum tips on rock)
- MAKE SURE you get a pair with an anti balling feature, look it up
I use Kahtoola KTS steel
P.S. make sure your multitool has a file on it, you don't want to have to hike down a mountain on dull spikes
Clothing
Clothing is one of those categories of kit that can break the bank. Wool is great for socks and blankets, that's about it. Wool has a tendency to fall apart when under heavy wear. Heed caution before spending 300$ on that wool sweater. I have found there really is no ceiling to the price of brand name performance clothing. That is why I want to introduce you to the wonderful world of Military Surplus.
Extended Climate Warfighter Clothing System (ECWCS) is a lightweight and affordable performance clothing solution. Coupled with some Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG), you can affordably cover all your bases year-round.
Read:
https://adsinc.com/brand/gen-iii-ecwcs-ocie/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_Resistant_Organizational_Gear
Clothing is one of those categories of kit that can break the bank. Wool is great for socks and blankets, that's about it. Wool has a tendency to fall apart when under heavy wear. Heed caution before spending 300$ on that wool sweater. I have found there really is no ceiling to the price of brand name performance clothing. That is why I want to introduce you to the wonderful world of Military Surplus.
Extended Climate Warfighter Clothing System (ECWCS) is a lightweight and affordable performance clothing solution. Coupled with some Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG), you can affordably cover all your bases year-round.
Read:
https://adsinc.com/brand/gen-iii-ecwcs-ocie/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_Resistant_Organizational_Gear
Sleeping Bags
In the world of sleeping bags you really have two options, down or synthetic insulation. There are benefits to each, but all must be carefully considered depending on your climate. Down insulations are the underfeathers of certain fowl depending on brand. Down performs extraordinarily well as an insulator when dry and because it does so, will almost always be half the weight of synthetic. Down when wet however, will lose much of its insulation properties and takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation is heavier, but in return, synthetic insulation dries much much faster and will keep you more warm if you get wet. Personally I use a lightweight synthetic because we have wet summers here, but I plan to buy a down insulation bag for the cold winters. Long story short, down is better for extremely cold and snowy/ dry climates and synthetic is better for warmer wet climates. Also keep in mind the temperature rating is based on what the company feels is the lowest temperature you'll feel 'comfortable', adjust accordingly. Also grab yourself a goretex waterproof bivy (milsurp) and throw it over your bag when you get it and keep it on, you'll thank me later.
An ideal sleeping bag:
- Premium synthetic or down insulation depending on your climate
- Temperature rating 20° lower than the coldest temps you expect
- Sleeping pad slot
- Inner pockets
- Large high quality zipper
- Fitted for your height
Sleeping pads are pretty basic, make sure you don't forget it or you will freeze. I tend to prefer the inflatable type for the hammock. Plus they are lighter and more comfortable. Don't cheap out.
In the world of sleeping bags you really have two options, down or synthetic insulation. There are benefits to each, but all must be carefully considered depending on your climate. Down insulations are the underfeathers of certain fowl depending on brand. Down performs extraordinarily well as an insulator when dry and because it does so, will almost always be half the weight of synthetic. Down when wet however, will lose much of its insulation properties and takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation is heavier, but in return, synthetic insulation dries much much faster and will keep you more warm if you get wet. Personally I use a lightweight synthetic because we have wet summers here, but I plan to buy a down insulation bag for the cold winters. Long story short, down is better for extremely cold and snowy/ dry climates and synthetic is better for warmer wet climates. Also keep in mind the temperature rating is based on what the company feels is the lowest temperature you'll feel 'comfortable', adjust accordingly. Also grab yourself a goretex waterproof bivy (milsurp) and throw it over your bag when you get it and keep it on, you'll thank me later.
An ideal sleeping bag:
- Premium synthetic or down insulation depending on your climate
- Temperature rating 20° lower than the coldest temps you expect
- Sleeping pad slot
- Inner pockets
- Large high quality zipper
- Fitted for your height
Sleeping pads are pretty basic, make sure you don't forget it or you will freeze. I tend to prefer the inflatable type for the hammock. Plus they are lighter and more comfortable. Don't cheap out.
Sleeping Systems
Tents require flat ground in a forest, something that takes time to find, if you find any at all. Then you finally find some flat ground after hiking 10 miles with an empty belly. Through your hunger and exhaustion you fumble around with poles, small parts and loops. Not only are hammocks twice as comfortable, but half the cost, weight and setup time. As long as you aren't planning to camp above the treeline, you will have no issues finding a place to setup camp.
An Ideal hammock setup:
- Quality nylon materials
- Bug net built in
- Underquilt to help insulate your body from the elements
- Rain fly with stakes for wind and rain blockage
- Lightweight
Pictured is the Warbonnet Outdoors Blackbird XLC, it is everything in a lightweight bundle.
Here is a link for those who camp above the trees, you will want something lightweight and easy to set up.
Tents require flat ground in a forest, something that takes time to find, if you find any at all. Then you finally find some flat ground after hiking 10 miles with an empty belly. Through your hunger and exhaustion you fumble around with poles, small parts and loops. Not only are hammocks twice as comfortable, but half the cost, weight and setup time. As long as you aren't planning to camp above the treeline, you will have no issues finding a place to setup camp.
An Ideal hammock setup:
- Quality nylon materials
- Bug net built in
- Underquilt to help insulate your body from the elements
- Rain fly with stakes for wind and rain blockage
- Lightweight
Pictured is the Warbonnet Outdoors Blackbird XLC, it is everything in a lightweight bundle.
Here is a link for those who camp above the trees, you will want something lightweight and easy to set up.
Forwarded from Living off the Land
As I've stated before, the cities are no place for us.
They are where men go to rot and become weak, subjecting themselves to the control of outside influences.
Instead of becoming a mighty warlord or hunter, they work at a corporate furniture chain and pay tribute to the people that sold them into pseudo-slavery. They are pacified with free porn, cheap food, and ill concieved notions of "peace" and "happiness" in an attempt to dilute the blood of their ancestors that still runs through their veins. The more they are plugged into the system, the more rules and harassment they willingly endure.
They forfeit a life among nature, a life among friendly folk. A life where their hard work can be observed and admired by them and their progeny.
This life is the one you must ensure for yourself and your children. If you're still in the cities, it's time to take a hike. Figuratively and literally.
They are where men go to rot and become weak, subjecting themselves to the control of outside influences.
Instead of becoming a mighty warlord or hunter, they work at a corporate furniture chain and pay tribute to the people that sold them into pseudo-slavery. They are pacified with free porn, cheap food, and ill concieved notions of "peace" and "happiness" in an attempt to dilute the blood of their ancestors that still runs through their veins. The more they are plugged into the system, the more rules and harassment they willingly endure.
They forfeit a life among nature, a life among friendly folk. A life where their hard work can be observed and admired by them and their progeny.
This life is the one you must ensure for yourself and your children. If you're still in the cities, it's time to take a hike. Figuratively and literally.
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Know what to look for:
Exerpt from Brett McCay's
"How to track a human."
Know What To Look For
As you scan and search your environment, you want to be on the lookout for a few indicators that will help you track your target. Hurth suggests being on the lookout for the following visual indicators (I haven’t included all of them — check out John’s book for the complete, exhaustive list):
Ground Indicators (on the ground)
Footprints
Vehicle tracks
Trampled grass
Boot and shoe scuffs
Turned over dead leaves*
Disturbed grass or soil*
Mud, soil, sand, and water transferred from footwear onto another medium
Track Traps: The Honey Pot of Ground Indicators
Hurth suggests being on the lookout for “track traps.” These are areas on the ground that do an excellent job of capturing your target’s tracks. He calls them “honey pots” because they leave so much information behind. Mud, sand, soft dirt, and snow are great examples of track traps. Bodies of water or oil spills can be track traps too.
Exerpt from Brett McCay's
"How to track a human."
Know What To Look For
As you scan and search your environment, you want to be on the lookout for a few indicators that will help you track your target. Hurth suggests being on the lookout for the following visual indicators (I haven’t included all of them — check out John’s book for the complete, exhaustive list):
Ground Indicators (on the ground)
Footprints
Vehicle tracks
Trampled grass
Boot and shoe scuffs
Turned over dead leaves*
Disturbed grass or soil*
Mud, soil, sand, and water transferred from footwear onto another medium
Track Traps: The Honey Pot of Ground Indicators
Hurth suggests being on the lookout for “track traps.” These are areas on the ground that do an excellent job of capturing your target’s tracks. He calls them “honey pots” because they leave so much information behind. Mud, sand, soft dirt, and snow are great examples of track traps. Bodies of water or oil spills can be track traps too.
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A target who steps in water or oil will likely leave footprints on the ground after stepping in the fluid.
*= Plant indicators like ferns work great. Especially the brittle bladderfern. Very little force is required to compromise the integrity of the plant.
*= Plant indicators like ferns work great. Especially the brittle bladderfern. Very little force is required to compromise the integrity of the plant.