While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
There are key pieces of gear I think every winter mountain climber and camper needs. I am going to write up some recommendations on winter gear in the next few posts. I will go over boots/crampons, cold weather clothing, sleep systems and some other various gear to get your kit ready for the winter
Boots
Requirements:
-Goretex
-Insulated with 400g thinsulate
-10" high
-'Waterproof'
Pictured are Rocky S2V insulated boots I own (they make my size) I would recommend them.
Crampons/Microspikes
- Crampons have larger spikes, better for steep icy situations
-Microspikes are literally just that and are better for flat situations
- Flexible or semi rigid frame? Semi rigid is better for steeper situations, flexible for flatter
-Steel frame or aluminum? Steel will hold it's point when on rock, but aluminum is lighter (you will trash aluminum tips on rock)
- MAKE SURE you get a pair with an anti balling feature, look it up
I use Kahtoola KTS steel
P.S. make sure your multitool has a file on it, you don't want to have to hike down a mountain on dull spikes
Requirements:
-Goretex
-Insulated with 400g thinsulate
-10" high
-'Waterproof'
Pictured are Rocky S2V insulated boots I own (they make my size) I would recommend them.
Crampons/Microspikes
- Crampons have larger spikes, better for steep icy situations
-Microspikes are literally just that and are better for flat situations
- Flexible or semi rigid frame? Semi rigid is better for steeper situations, flexible for flatter
-Steel frame or aluminum? Steel will hold it's point when on rock, but aluminum is lighter (you will trash aluminum tips on rock)
- MAKE SURE you get a pair with an anti balling feature, look it up
I use Kahtoola KTS steel
P.S. make sure your multitool has a file on it, you don't want to have to hike down a mountain on dull spikes
Clothing
Clothing is one of those categories of kit that can break the bank. Wool is great for socks and blankets, that's about it. Wool has a tendency to fall apart when under heavy wear. Heed caution before spending 300$ on that wool sweater. I have found there really is no ceiling to the price of brand name performance clothing. That is why I want to introduce you to the wonderful world of Military Surplus.
Extended Climate Warfighter Clothing System (ECWCS) is a lightweight and affordable performance clothing solution. Coupled with some Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG), you can affordably cover all your bases year-round.
Read:
https://adsinc.com/brand/gen-iii-ecwcs-ocie/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_Resistant_Organizational_Gear
Clothing is one of those categories of kit that can break the bank. Wool is great for socks and blankets, that's about it. Wool has a tendency to fall apart when under heavy wear. Heed caution before spending 300$ on that wool sweater. I have found there really is no ceiling to the price of brand name performance clothing. That is why I want to introduce you to the wonderful world of Military Surplus.
Extended Climate Warfighter Clothing System (ECWCS) is a lightweight and affordable performance clothing solution. Coupled with some Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG), you can affordably cover all your bases year-round.
Read:
https://adsinc.com/brand/gen-iii-ecwcs-ocie/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_Resistant_Organizational_Gear
Sleeping Bags
In the world of sleeping bags you really have two options, down or synthetic insulation. There are benefits to each, but all must be carefully considered depending on your climate. Down insulations are the underfeathers of certain fowl depending on brand. Down performs extraordinarily well as an insulator when dry and because it does so, will almost always be half the weight of synthetic. Down when wet however, will lose much of its insulation properties and takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation is heavier, but in return, synthetic insulation dries much much faster and will keep you more warm if you get wet. Personally I use a lightweight synthetic because we have wet summers here, but I plan to buy a down insulation bag for the cold winters. Long story short, down is better for extremely cold and snowy/ dry climates and synthetic is better for warmer wet climates. Also keep in mind the temperature rating is based on what the company feels is the lowest temperature you'll feel 'comfortable', adjust accordingly. Also grab yourself a goretex waterproof bivy (milsurp) and throw it over your bag when you get it and keep it on, you'll thank me later.
An ideal sleeping bag:
- Premium synthetic or down insulation depending on your climate
- Temperature rating 20° lower than the coldest temps you expect
- Sleeping pad slot
- Inner pockets
- Large high quality zipper
- Fitted for your height
Sleeping pads are pretty basic, make sure you don't forget it or you will freeze. I tend to prefer the inflatable type for the hammock. Plus they are lighter and more comfortable. Don't cheap out.
In the world of sleeping bags you really have two options, down or synthetic insulation. There are benefits to each, but all must be carefully considered depending on your climate. Down insulations are the underfeathers of certain fowl depending on brand. Down performs extraordinarily well as an insulator when dry and because it does so, will almost always be half the weight of synthetic. Down when wet however, will lose much of its insulation properties and takes a long time to dry. Synthetic insulation is heavier, but in return, synthetic insulation dries much much faster and will keep you more warm if you get wet. Personally I use a lightweight synthetic because we have wet summers here, but I plan to buy a down insulation bag for the cold winters. Long story short, down is better for extremely cold and snowy/ dry climates and synthetic is better for warmer wet climates. Also keep in mind the temperature rating is based on what the company feels is the lowest temperature you'll feel 'comfortable', adjust accordingly. Also grab yourself a goretex waterproof bivy (milsurp) and throw it over your bag when you get it and keep it on, you'll thank me later.
An ideal sleeping bag:
- Premium synthetic or down insulation depending on your climate
- Temperature rating 20° lower than the coldest temps you expect
- Sleeping pad slot
- Inner pockets
- Large high quality zipper
- Fitted for your height
Sleeping pads are pretty basic, make sure you don't forget it or you will freeze. I tend to prefer the inflatable type for the hammock. Plus they are lighter and more comfortable. Don't cheap out.
Sleeping Systems
Tents require flat ground in a forest, something that takes time to find, if you find any at all. Then you finally find some flat ground after hiking 10 miles with an empty belly. Through your hunger and exhaustion you fumble around with poles, small parts and loops. Not only are hammocks twice as comfortable, but half the cost, weight and setup time. As long as you aren't planning to camp above the treeline, you will have no issues finding a place to setup camp.
An Ideal hammock setup:
- Quality nylon materials
- Bug net built in
- Underquilt to help insulate your body from the elements
- Rain fly with stakes for wind and rain blockage
- Lightweight
Pictured is the Warbonnet Outdoors Blackbird XLC, it is everything in a lightweight bundle.
Here is a link for those who camp above the trees, you will want something lightweight and easy to set up.
Tents require flat ground in a forest, something that takes time to find, if you find any at all. Then you finally find some flat ground after hiking 10 miles with an empty belly. Through your hunger and exhaustion you fumble around with poles, small parts and loops. Not only are hammocks twice as comfortable, but half the cost, weight and setup time. As long as you aren't planning to camp above the treeline, you will have no issues finding a place to setup camp.
An Ideal hammock setup:
- Quality nylon materials
- Bug net built in
- Underquilt to help insulate your body from the elements
- Rain fly with stakes for wind and rain blockage
- Lightweight
Pictured is the Warbonnet Outdoors Blackbird XLC, it is everything in a lightweight bundle.
Here is a link for those who camp above the trees, you will want something lightweight and easy to set up.
Forwarded from Living off the Land
As I've stated before, the cities are no place for us.
They are where men go to rot and become weak, subjecting themselves to the control of outside influences.
Instead of becoming a mighty warlord or hunter, they work at a corporate furniture chain and pay tribute to the people that sold them into pseudo-slavery. They are pacified with free porn, cheap food, and ill concieved notions of "peace" and "happiness" in an attempt to dilute the blood of their ancestors that still runs through their veins. The more they are plugged into the system, the more rules and harassment they willingly endure.
They forfeit a life among nature, a life among friendly folk. A life where their hard work can be observed and admired by them and their progeny.
This life is the one you must ensure for yourself and your children. If you're still in the cities, it's time to take a hike. Figuratively and literally.
They are where men go to rot and become weak, subjecting themselves to the control of outside influences.
Instead of becoming a mighty warlord or hunter, they work at a corporate furniture chain and pay tribute to the people that sold them into pseudo-slavery. They are pacified with free porn, cheap food, and ill concieved notions of "peace" and "happiness" in an attempt to dilute the blood of their ancestors that still runs through their veins. The more they are plugged into the system, the more rules and harassment they willingly endure.
They forfeit a life among nature, a life among friendly folk. A life where their hard work can be observed and admired by them and their progeny.
This life is the one you must ensure for yourself and your children. If you're still in the cities, it's time to take a hike. Figuratively and literally.
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Know what to look for:
Exerpt from Brett McCay's
"How to track a human."
Know What To Look For
As you scan and search your environment, you want to be on the lookout for a few indicators that will help you track your target. Hurth suggests being on the lookout for the following visual indicators (I haven’t included all of them — check out John’s book for the complete, exhaustive list):
Ground Indicators (on the ground)
Footprints
Vehicle tracks
Trampled grass
Boot and shoe scuffs
Turned over dead leaves*
Disturbed grass or soil*
Mud, soil, sand, and water transferred from footwear onto another medium
Track Traps: The Honey Pot of Ground Indicators
Hurth suggests being on the lookout for “track traps.” These are areas on the ground that do an excellent job of capturing your target’s tracks. He calls them “honey pots” because they leave so much information behind. Mud, sand, soft dirt, and snow are great examples of track traps. Bodies of water or oil spills can be track traps too.
Exerpt from Brett McCay's
"How to track a human."
Know What To Look For
As you scan and search your environment, you want to be on the lookout for a few indicators that will help you track your target. Hurth suggests being on the lookout for the following visual indicators (I haven’t included all of them — check out John’s book for the complete, exhaustive list):
Ground Indicators (on the ground)
Footprints
Vehicle tracks
Trampled grass
Boot and shoe scuffs
Turned over dead leaves*
Disturbed grass or soil*
Mud, soil, sand, and water transferred from footwear onto another medium
Track Traps: The Honey Pot of Ground Indicators
Hurth suggests being on the lookout for “track traps.” These are areas on the ground that do an excellent job of capturing your target’s tracks. He calls them “honey pots” because they leave so much information behind. Mud, sand, soft dirt, and snow are great examples of track traps. Bodies of water or oil spills can be track traps too.
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A target who steps in water or oil will likely leave footprints on the ground after stepping in the fluid.
*= Plant indicators like ferns work great. Especially the brittle bladderfern. Very little force is required to compromise the integrity of the plant.
*= Plant indicators like ferns work great. Especially the brittle bladderfern. Very little force is required to compromise the integrity of the plant.
Forwarded from Living off the Land
Cabbage is my favorite crop, mainly because you can make delicious saurkraut out of it. My family has been making saurkraut using the same shredder that's been in the family since at least 1870.
Cabbage prefers sandy loam with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. It is cold hardy, and does not like hot temperatures. It requires about 2 in of water per week, and full sunlight. I like to work in compost the fall before planting, as cabbage likes lots of nutrients. Rotate your cabbage, and don't plant it next to other brassicas.
Plant cabbage as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring (usually St. Patrick's day). Seeds should be put 1/2 inch deep, and 2 inches apart, in rows 24 to 36 inches apart. Thin the plants so they are 18 to 24 inches apart after a few weeks. In 90-120 days, your cabbage should be ready to harvest. 6-10 heads per person should be good, depending on how much you like saurkraut.
You can also plant them in late summer for a fall harvest should you desire.
Cabbage prefers sandy loam with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. It is cold hardy, and does not like hot temperatures. It requires about 2 in of water per week, and full sunlight. I like to work in compost the fall before planting, as cabbage likes lots of nutrients. Rotate your cabbage, and don't plant it next to other brassicas.
Plant cabbage as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring (usually St. Patrick's day). Seeds should be put 1/2 inch deep, and 2 inches apart, in rows 24 to 36 inches apart. Thin the plants so they are 18 to 24 inches apart after a few weeks. In 90-120 days, your cabbage should be ready to harvest. 6-10 heads per person should be good, depending on how much you like saurkraut.
You can also plant them in late summer for a fall harvest should you desire.
Water woes. Depending on your water’s pH, brass pex fittings will “rot” in 20 years. The first to go are the elbows closest to your hot water heater. About 20-30 years ago plumbers starting using pex and it was so easy to use elbows they used a lot of them. They are buried in your walls. Or if on a slab a 3/4 trunk line may stub up only a few inches and go thru a TEE and a pair of 90’s back into the slab. In my own house we had to abandon the pex in our slab and rerun new pipes thru the attic. Take some friendly advice... use one continuous run of pex from your water entry point to each fixture in the house. No TEEs and no 90’s. Make it so that the only fittings are either a valve in the garage or the connector under your toilet or sink. Here’s what rotting brass pex fittings look like. This has happened to our house, a relative and a neighbor all in the past 3 years.
Nothing like coming home to find a pex fitting leaking under a tiled in garden tub. This was stubbed up thru the slab at a place you couldn’t reach without jack hammering the tub out. It leaked because it was the first drop on the trunk that fed the whole house water.