Homeschooling Odyssey

Contents

1. Introduction
2. A Parent-Teacher Conference
3. School at Home
4. The Forest Through the Trees
5. Charles Dickens, Lightweigh
6. No Telly on the Mountain
7. Farm-School, Dad-School
8. Mr. P and the Livestock Auction
9. Learning to Read
10. School in the City
11. Grading and Testing
12. Emma's Educational Choices
13. Keep Homeschool Fun
14. Sex Education in Utopia
15. The Big Kids Go to High School
16. The Myth of the Teenage Monster
17. The Socialization of Julia and Tom
18. From ADD to AAA
19. Piano Lessons with a Boa Constrictor
20. Homeschoolers in College
21. Artists and Artisans
22. Adventures in the Working World
23. A Day in Tom-School
24. Adam Meets the Walrus and the Carpenter
25. Afterthoughts - Fix the Plumbing

#Personal
#General

How to make biodiesel fuel

Making your own fuel from
vegetable oil can be easy, costeffective, and environmentally
beneficial.

What makes this fuel even
more attractive is that you can make it
from the waste vegetable oil produced
in the United States every year, which
amounts to more than three billion
gallons.

With a bit of know-how and
persistence, you can run any diesel
engine on vegetable oil.


#Survival
#Supplies

Bought this vintage sewing machine and refurbished it for 60$. I have already made a woobie blanket and stuff sack. Sleeping bag and organizational sacks are coming up next. Learning to make your own gear/clothing and having the ability to mend your clothing and gear is truly an essential life-long skill for any prepper/ woodsman.

Sewing is one of those skills everyone should know. Master these stitches and start practicing on different fabrics. Make sure your thread tension is just right!

Sewing machines are a must-have. Like my Brother sewing machine straight out of 1950, they last a lifetime. Anyway, once you master this machine you can start making anything from clothing, to kit and packs.

While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.

I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.

So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.

The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.

The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.

Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.

Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.

Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.

These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.

Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.

This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.

Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.

Bought this vintage sewing machine and refurbished it for 60$. I have already made a woobie blanket and stuff sack. Sleeping bag and organizational sacks are coming up next. Learning to make your own gear/clothing and having the ability to mend your clothing and gear is truly an essential life-long skill for any prepper/ woodsman.

Sewing is one of those skills everyone should know. Master these stitches and start practicing on different fabrics. Make sure your thread tension is just right!

Sewing machines are a must-have. Like my Brother sewing machine straight out of 1950, they last a lifetime. Anyway, once you master this machine you can start making anything from clothing, to kit and packs.

While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.

I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.

So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.

The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.

The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.

Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.

Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.

Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.

These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.

Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.

This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.

Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.

Edward Watkins - The Secret of Successful Tailoring

1. The Choice of Material and Design
2. First Fittings
3. Cutting
4. Second Fittings
5. Collars, Facings, Sleeves and Lining
6. Skirt Construction and Finishing.
7. Designing
8. Lines
9.Waist Linings
10. Practical Suggestions to Dressmakers
11. Furs
12. Bookkeeping

13. Questions Answered by Mr. Watkins


#Personal
#DIY

MIT Guide To Lockpicking

Contents

1. It's Easy
2. How a Key Opens a Lock
3. The Flatland Model
4. Basic Picking & The Binding Defect
5. The Pin Column Model
6. Basic Scrubbing
7. Advanced Lock Picking
8. Exercises
9. Recognizing and Exploiting Personality Traits
10. Final Remarks


#DIY
#General

How to Hide Anything

AS GOVERNMENT IMPOSES MORE AND MORE RESTRICTIONS on what we can—or, more importantly, can-
not—own; as the number of burglaries soar; as terrorism
by aberration or by design escalates; and as the possibility
of anarchy seems closer to home than ever, the need for
having a safe space for goods and persons becomes
pressing.

Here are the guidelines to the design, selection,
and construction of hidden storage areas small enough
to hide cash and jewelry and large enough to conceal
armaments and ammunitions or, in the extreme, a family.

Contents

1. Introduction
2. Home-Base Hides
3. Elaborate Hiding Places
4. Secret Safe Spaces for Personnel
5. Away-from-Home Hides
6. Hints and Tips

#Survival
#General

https://youtu.be/MnKAaehyeqM

#DIY #Survival

Prepping Matrix V1


All in One

-Medical
-Water
-Food
-Protection
-Survival Plan
-Communication
-Energy
-Financial
-Sanitation & Hygiene


It has 2700x3600 Pixels, so
I suggest you print this out!

The Bug-Out Bag

A REALISTIC SHORT-TERM SUPPLY SOLUTION

COMPLETE & ILLUSTRATED

#Survival
#Defense