Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Sewing machines are a must-have. Like my Brother sewing machine straight out of 1950, they last a lifetime. Anyway, once you master this machine you can start making anything from clothing, to kit and packs.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Bought this vintage sewing machine and refurbished it for 60$. I have already made a woobie blanket and stuff sack. Sleeping bag and organizational sacks are coming up next. Learning to make your own gear/clothing and having the ability to mend your clothing and gear is truly an essential life-long skill for any prepper/ woodsman.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Sewing is one of those skills everyone should know. Master these stitches and start practicing on different fabrics. Make sure your thread tension is just right!
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Sewing machines are a must-have. Like my Brother sewing machine straight out of 1950, they last a lifetime. Anyway, once you master this machine you can start making anything from clothing, to kit and packs.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
While many families gave up on sewing at some point in the twentieth century, my mother has stubbornly continued to sew and mend, and made certain to teach me how.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
I have used many sewing machines, both new and antique, and I have to agree with my mother's preference for Singer machines. Other antique machines usually feel clunky in their operation. Modern machines feel flimsy, and are simply not as reliable.
So, from experience, the old Singer sewing machines, the ones finished in Japan black, are the best. Many were conversions to electric, and retain the ability to be run manually. A few are set up to be either electric or treadle.
The Model 66 was an exceptional full-size machine. It was meant for fabric, but was used for fine leather work industrially.
The Model 99 was a 3/4 size machine that was popular both at homes and in sweatshops a century ago.
Models 66 and 99 can often be found in good condition, only needing a cleaning and lubrication, for under $100.
Models 221 and 222 were very small machines that remain so popular that they are almost impossible to find below $200. They're an extremely capable machine in a compact and portable package. The difference between them is that the 222 has a freearm to sewing sleeves and cuffs.
Singer had a trade-in arrangement through the 1960s, and many of the older manual machines were converted to electric and re-sold inexpensively. Electric or electrified Singer machines have two common forms of speed control. Pedal control is natural to anybody who drives. The alternative, a paddle that sits below the table and you press your thigh against, seems to be based off of how you work the swells on an organ. It's not terrible to learn, but isn't as immediately understandable to most people as foot control.
These machines do only one stitch, the lock stitch, unlike later machines, but they do that stitch very well and very reliably. This is the most common stitch you'll need. Even if you have a fancy modern machine, one of these old Singers can take a huge amount of work off the fancy (and more easily worn out) machine. Or you can do your specialty stitching by hand, as was common when these machines first came out.
Be careful with older models or other models. Earlier sewing machines sewed with a chain stitch. Unlike a locking stitch, breaking one link in a chain stitch can see the whole seam come undone.
This is useful when tinkering or prototyping something, when you might need to change the position of the seam frequently, and these early machines have found their niche in such operations. They are also useful for sewing up bags that will need to be reopened.
Regularly lubricated, antique sewing machines last forever. Belts are rubber today, but were leather 130 years ago. Other than the belt and tire, everything is metal.
Forwarded from Off The Grid (Werner Best)
Edward Watkins - The Secret of Successful Tailoring.pdf
4.4 MB
Edward Watkins - The Secret of Successful Tailoring
1. The Choice of Material and Design
2. First Fittings
3. Cutting
4. Second Fittings
5. Collars, Facings, Sleeves and Lining
6. Skirt Construction and Finishing.
7. Designing
8. Lines
9.Waist Linings
10. Practical Suggestions to Dressmakers
11. Furs
12. Bookkeeping
13. Questions Answered by Mr. Watkins
#Personal
#DIY
1. The Choice of Material and Design
2. First Fittings
3. Cutting
4. Second Fittings
5. Collars, Facings, Sleeves and Lining
6. Skirt Construction and Finishing.
7. Designing
8. Lines
9.Waist Linings
10. Practical Suggestions to Dressmakers
11. Furs
12. Bookkeeping
13. Questions Answered by Mr. Watkins
#Personal
#DIY
MIT Guide To Lockpicking.pdf
508.9 KB
How to Hide Anything.pdf
3.7 MB
How to Hide Anything
AS GOVERNMENT IMPOSES MORE AND MORE RESTRICTIONS on what we can—or, more importantly, can-
not—own; as the number of burglaries soar; as terrorism
by aberration or by design escalates; and as the possibility
of anarchy seems closer to home than ever, the need for
having a safe space for goods and persons becomes
pressing.
Here are the guidelines to the design, selection,
and construction of hidden storage areas small enough
to hide cash and jewelry and large enough to conceal
armaments and ammunitions or, in the extreme, a family.
Contents
1. Introduction
2. Home-Base Hides
3. Elaborate Hiding Places
4. Secret Safe Spaces for Personnel
5. Away-from-Home Hides
6. Hints and Tips
#Survival
#General
AS GOVERNMENT IMPOSES MORE AND MORE RESTRICTIONS on what we can—or, more importantly, can-
not—own; as the number of burglaries soar; as terrorism
by aberration or by design escalates; and as the possibility
of anarchy seems closer to home than ever, the need for
having a safe space for goods and persons becomes
pressing.
Here are the guidelines to the design, selection,
and construction of hidden storage areas small enough
to hide cash and jewelry and large enough to conceal
armaments and ammunitions or, in the extreme, a family.
Contents
1. Introduction
2. Home-Base Hides
3. Elaborate Hiding Places
4. Secret Safe Spaces for Personnel
5. Away-from-Home Hides
6. Hints and Tips
#Survival
#General
Practical information/skills
Practical Information Skills Archive.zip
YouTube
How to Build a Survival Bow - Instructional Video Sample
About - How to Make a Survival Bow... Hey... this is David with Ultimate Survival Tips... and yep, this is another one of our channels. In our spare time we do some cool video stuff for outdoor brands... like this video....
Get More ULTIMATE SURVIVAL TIPS:…
Get More ULTIMATE SURVIVAL TIPS:…
Prepping Matrix.jpg
2.9 MB
Prepping Matrix V1
All in One
-Medical
-Water
-Food
-Protection
-Survival Plan
-Communication
-Energy
-Financial
-Sanitation & Hygiene
It has 2700x3600 Pixels, so
I suggest you print this out!
All in One
-Medical
-Water
-Food
-Protection
-Survival Plan
-Communication
-Energy
-Financial
-Sanitation & Hygiene
It has 2700x3600 Pixels, so
I suggest you print this out!
F. C. Bishopp - The House Fly and How to Suppress It.pdf
678.7 KB
F. C. Bishopp - The House Fly and How to Suppress It
Only 32 pages
Contents
1. Kinds of flies found in houses
2. Where the true house fly lays its eggs
3. How the house fly passes the winter
4. Carriage of disease by the house fly
5. Excluding and capturing flies
6. The use of screens
7. Fly papers and poisons
8. Fly sprays
9. Flytraps
10. Preventing the breeding of flies
11. Construction and care of stables
12. Fly-tight manure pits
13. Frequency with which manure should be removed in cities and towns
14. Health office regulations for control of house flies in cities
15. Disposal of manure in rural and suburban districts
16. Chemical treatment of manure to destroy fly maggots
17. Maggot trap for destruction of fly larvæ from horse manure
18. Compact heaping of manure
19. Garbage disposal and treatment of miscellaneous breeding places
20. Sewage disposal in relation to the prevention of fly-borne diseases
21. What communities can do to eliminate the house fly
#Health
Only 32 pages
Contents
1. Kinds of flies found in houses
2. Where the true house fly lays its eggs
3. How the house fly passes the winter
4. Carriage of disease by the house fly
5. Excluding and capturing flies
6. The use of screens
7. Fly papers and poisons
8. Fly sprays
9. Flytraps
10. Preventing the breeding of flies
11. Construction and care of stables
12. Fly-tight manure pits
13. Frequency with which manure should be removed in cities and towns
14. Health office regulations for control of house flies in cities
15. Disposal of manure in rural and suburban districts
16. Chemical treatment of manure to destroy fly maggots
17. Maggot trap for destruction of fly larvæ from horse manure
18. Compact heaping of manure
19. Garbage disposal and treatment of miscellaneous breeding places
20. Sewage disposal in relation to the prevention of fly-borne diseases
21. What communities can do to eliminate the house fly
#Health
101 Essential Tips; Dog Care.pdf
9.9 MB